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Most people know the name Christopher Columbus, and the fact that he was the “discoverer of America.” However, very few can name the exact area of America he actually discovered. I admit, I was one of those people until I decided to visit Santo Domingo while on vacation in the Dominican Republic.
Christopher Columbus’s image on a Bahamas one dollar banknote © Vkilikov | Dreamstime.com
As I read more about the city, I learned that it had a very rich history related to Columbus’s transatlantic voyages and the beginnings of the New World. While Columbus initially discovered an island in the Bahamas, it was in the Santo Domingo area where he helped establish the first European settlements. This eventually led to the colonization of the Americas.
While I was never a fan of Christopher Columbus, a man who treated the native people with notorious brutality, I was curious to find out more. Apparently, Santo Domingo was not only the capital of the Dominican Republic, but also a fascinating historic place! Some of the oldest buildings in the Americas are located in the city’s Zona Colonial, which is designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
Christopher Columbus’s voyage to America © Alexander Makatserchyk | Dreamstime.com
Santo Domingo Bound
After learning a little bit more about the history of Santo Domingo, I knew I just had to visit. At the time, I was on vacation with my husband, and our two daughters in the city of Punta Cana, about 3 hours away from Santo Domingo. I convinced them that going to the capital would be an adventure, and we booked a guided tour at our resort, Majestic Colonial.
Leaving Bright and Early
On the day of our excursion, I woke up everyone around 6:15 am because our shuttle was scheduled to leave the resort at 7:00 am. The kids were a little cranky, wondering why on Earth we were getting up so early while on vacation. As soon as we got to the breakfast buffet, their mood brightened. We ate as quickly as possible, and then made our way to the resort lobby. There, we were greeted by a local man who took us to our tour shuttle, which was waiting in front of the main entrance.
As a side note, I want to mention here that we did consider renting a car and driving ourselves. After doing some research and talking to the staff at our resort, however, we decided that this would be a bad idea. Apparently, the rules of the road are followed very loosely in the Dominican Republic, and getting into an accident could potentially turn into a huge ordeal for the unlucky tourist. So, we just stuck with the safest option – an organized tour and a shuttle, operated by an experienced local driver.
On the Road
After we left Majestic Colonial, we stopped by a couple other resorts in the area to pick up more tourists. Once everyone was happily packed in the shuttle, we were on our way to Santo Domingo.
It was definitely an interesting drive: Lush tropical vegetation and patches of palm trees were followed by abandoned structures; fancy new villas stood not too far from impoverished villages. On more than one occasion, we passed motorcycles with entire families squeezed together on top, including very young children; not one person was wearing a helmet! The reality is, this is what people have, and how a lot of Dominicans get around rain or shine.
This is how many people get around in the Dominican Republic © 7chriss3 | Dreamstime.com
A Stop in La Romana
After driving for a little over an hour, we made our first stop in La Romana. This is one of the bigger cities in the Dominican Republic, and a major tourist destination. There are large resorts, a cruse port, and several world-class golf courses there. We only heard about it from our tour guide but didn’t really see much of anything. For us, La Romana was only a pit stop.
Our shuttle pulled up in front of a convenience store in the city so we could use the bathroom before continuing on. There, we found a variety of basic items, as well as local arts, crafts, and pottery.
One of my favorite paintings in the store in La Romana by local artist Cesar
Clay figurines in the store in La Romana
The greatest attraction, however, was a cat who was nursing her baby kittens in a cardboard box. The kids in our group were mesmerized, and perfectly content to spend the rest of the day watching her. My younger daughter demanded to know if there would be more cats to see in Santo Domingo because, you know, this was all that really mattered!
Los Tres Ojos (The Three Eyes National Park)
After our quick stop in La Romana, we were on the road for a little over an hour when our driver announced we had arrived. He pulled up in a parking lot, and everyone got off the shuttle. Frankly, I had no idea exactly what the itinerary for the day was, since I hadn’t planned it myself…I just followed everyone else. Our guide explained that we were on the outskirts of Santo Domingo at a National Park called The Three Eyes (Los Tres Ojos). Apparently, “the eyes’ were lakes, nestled in limestone caves; in the past, the local people came to bathe and swim here.
Lago de Azufre (Sulfur Lake)
As we started making our way down a set of steep stairs, a stunning view opened up. A vibrant turquoise-blue pool stood perfectly still under a large cave. The only disturbances in its smooth surface came from occasional droplets falling from the ceiling of the cave, forming gentle ripples. The name of this lake was Lago de Azufre or Sulfur Lake, because it contained a good amount of sulfur.
Looking down at Lago de Azufre in the Three Eyes National Park near Santo Domingo
A closer look at Lago de Azufre…such pristine blue water
Lago las Damas (Women’s Lake)
The next lake that we visited was called Lago las Damas or Women’s Lake. We learned that this was where local women came to bathe their children. It had the same crystal clear, blue water, but it was smaller than Lago de Azufre.
Lago las Damas or Women’s Lake in the Three Eyes National Park near Santo Domingo
The beautiful blue water of Lago las Damas
Lago la Nevera (Fridge Lake)
Finally, after descending down another set of stairs, we arrived at Lago la Nevera, or Fridge Lake. This “eye” was much larger than the others, and disappeared into a dark cave. Our guide explained that it was deeper, and also colder because it wasn’t getting much sunlight. This was why they named it Fridge Lake (Lago la Nevera). Near the edge of the water, we saw an interesting-looking square boat attached to a set of ropes. There, a man started waving and urging us to give him some cash, while promising a great adventure. Frankly, I didn’t need much convincing. I had never floated inside a cave before, so I was in. Hubby took a little longer to decide, but gave in after a little prodding!
The square, rope-pulled boat at Lago la Nevera taking adventurers into the cave © Jose Terrero | Dreamstime.com
Boat Ride to the Unknown
We paid the man what he wanted, and climbed aboard. When every last adventure-seeking tourist was in, we slowly started floating towards the cave. It was a pretty interesting boat ride along a track of ropes. By pulling on the ropes, the man moved us deeper and deeper into the darkness.
On the boat, looking back towards the edge of Lago la Nevera where we began this journey
Just when we could barely see anything around us, we noticed a horizontal crack of light at the other end of the cave. Now, things were getting really intriguing! As we got closer, we could see lush tropical plants and hanging lianas.
A crack of light at the other end of the cave in Lago la Nevera
We slowly came to a stop, and got off the boat. There, a short boardwalk lead us to a stunning view; it was another lake, a “secret” fourth “eye”.
Uncovering the Secret
Another man greeted us at this point explaining that this lake was called Lago los Zaramagullones, or Grebes Lake. I later found out that a grebe is a type of waterbird, similar to a duck. Unlike the other three, this lake is completely open to air, not tucked under a cave. It receives a lot of sunlight, and provides an excellent habitat for turtles and fish, as well as the lush vegetation all around. The grebes frequent this lake to feast on all the fish, since this is one of their favorite delicacies.
The unexpected fourth lake, Lago los Zaramagullones, a serene, beautiful sight
After we looked around and took some photos, it was time to get back to the other side. We tipped the man who was apparently “the keeper of the Fourth Eye,” and got back in the rope-pulled boat. At this point, I couldn’t help but feel like we were in a scene from an Indiana Jones movie. The epic music was the only thing missing, so I quietly started whistling John William’s familiar tune from Raiders!
I must say, if you are visiting the park, DON’T MISS the boat experience! Floating through the dark cave was such a unique adventure, and the fourth lake was completely worth it. This was definitely one of our favorite things to do in Santo Domingo that day!
The fam at the Fourth Lake in the Three Eyes National Park
Faro a Colon (Columbus Lighthouse)
After circling on the main trail and back to our shuttle, we got on the road again. Before long, we made a short stop near the Columbus Lighthouse (Faro a Colon), an enormous concrete structure shaped like a cross. There was no time to go in, but we did take a few pictures.
The Columbus Lighthouse (Faro a Colon) in Santo Domingo
Honestly, I did not find this monument particularly attractive from the outside, but based on pictures I have seen, I do believe it is a lot more fascinating on the inside.
Inside the Columbus Lighthouse in Santo Domingo © Giuseppe Crimeni | Dreamstime.com
A few interesting facts we learned were that the Columbus Lighthouse was built to mark 500 years since the “Discovery of America”; it projects beams of light so powerful that it can be seen from Puerto Rico, and allegedly holds the remains of Christopher Columbus. The jury is still out on that one, since the city of Seville in Spain also claims to have Columbus’s bones. Regardless, I imagine this giant monument must be quite a sight at night when all the lights are on!
Things to Do in Santo Domingo – Zona Colonial
After the Columbus Lighthouse, we headed towards the historic Zona Colonial of Santo Domingo. This is an area of the city where some of the oldest buildings and streets in the Americas can be found. Understandably, it is a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site, and one of the top things to do in Santo Domingo.
The Ozama Fort Wall In Santo Domingo
Juan Pablo Duarte Statue
Statue of Juan Pablo Duarte in Zona Colonial, Santo Domingo
The shuttle dropped us near the Ozama River in front of the Ozama Fort Wall and a statue of a man named Juan Pablo Duarte. Our tour guide explained that he was considered one of the founding fathers of the Dominican Republic. He fought against Haitian occupation, and was responsible to a large degree for achieving independence for the country.
Plaza de España (The Spanish Plaza)
From the Duarte statue, we walked to the nearby Spanish Plaza, which was rather spacious and very European-looking. Restaurants lined the nearby buildings, making the area welcoming and, in a way, quite cozy.
In the middle of the plaza, there was another statue of someone named Frey Nicolas de Ovando. He was apparently a Spanish soldier who did horrible things to the native Taino people; someone who, in my view, doesn’t deserve a statue at all, but I suppose, it is for the sake of history.
The Spanish Plaza (Plaza de Espana) in Santo Domingo
Walking towards Columbus’s Castle (Alcazar de Colon) on the Spanish Plaza
Alcazar de Colon (Columus’s Castle)
Speaking of cruel Spaniards, our next planned activity was a visit to Alcazar de Colon, Diego Columbus’s castle. He was Christopher Columbus’s first-born son, and the governor of the land for a period of time. Construction of the building began in 1511, and was completed a few years later, which makes it the oldest castle in the Americas.
The Columbus Castle (Alcazar de Colon), located on the Spanish Plaza in Santo Domingo
A model of Columbus’s ship inside Alcazar de Colon
Inside, we found an extensive collection of Renaissance artworks and tapestries, as well as clothing and furniture in the style of the period. My favorite features, however, were the two large balconies, one overlooking the Ozama River, and the other, the Spanish Plaza.
View from the east balcony of Alcazar de Colon towards the Ozama River
View from the west balcony of Alcazar de Colon towards the Spanish Plaza
Calle las Damas (Ladies’ Street)
After we finished our visit to Alcazar de Colon, our tour of Zona Colonial continued with a walk along Calle las Damas (Ladies’ Street). We were fascinated to learn that this is the oldest street in the Americas! I was curious to find out how it got its name, and I asked our tour guide. He explained that noble European women used to take evening strolls along this street. As you can imagine, these noble women were the wives and relatives of the Spaniards that settled here during the 16th century.
Calle las Damas in Zona Colonial of Santo Domingo
Walking on Calle las Damas was truly like walking back in time. We passed by a colonial castle, and many other historic buildings that are some of the oldest in the Americas. To me, this was an absolutely incredible experience!
A colonial castle on Calle las Damas in Zona Colonial, and an ice cream man
National Pantheon
One place that we visited along Calle las Damas was the National Pantheon. This was an old building from the mid 18th century which was originally a Jesuit church. Currently, it is the final resting place for some of the country’s most notable and revered citizens.
The National Pantheon in Santo Domingo on Calle las Damas
We went towards the entrance, and as we walked past the guard, I noticed there was a huge fan directed at him. The man must have been so hot, dressed the way he was in the Caribbean heat…standing without moving a single muscle! I know I would collapse after about five minutes!
The guard at the National Pantheon trying to cool off with a fan…who can blame him!
Walking through the National Pantheon in Santo Domingo…a fascinating, historical building
Plaza Maria de Toledo
After the National Pantheon, we stopped at a small plaza nearby, named after the wife of Diego Columbus, Maria de Toledo. It was a peaceful area enclosed by more Spanish colonial buildings, and arches. It seemed like a quiet oasis in the middle of a bustling area of the city.
Plaza Maria de Toledo, located right next to the National Pantheon
Calle el Conde (Count’s Street)
We walked a little further on Calle las Damas, then turned right onto Calle el Conde (Count’s Street). This was a pedestrian area, with many restaurants and shops, and it truly gave me the sense of being somewhere in Europe. Here, I almost lost our group while struggling to take a few decent pictures…It wasn’t easy, considering the bright sunlight, mixed with the deep shadows from the surrounding trees.
Walking on Calle el Conde in Santo Domingo, a pedestrian shopping and dining street
Parque Colon (Columbus Park)
We made our way to Parque Colon (Columbus Park), a nice plaza with a large bronze statue of Columbus in the middle. There, a whole bunch of unconcerned pigeons were roaming around, looking for crumbs. Situated at one end of the plaza was Catedral Primada de America, America’s First (and oldest) Cathedral. It was an impressive stone building, completed in 1540.
Parque Colon, and the oldest cathedral in the Americas…and Dani chasing all the pigeons
The oldest cathedral in the Americas on Parque Colon in Santo Domingo
Just as we were admiring this historic site, our group was “attacked” by several very pushy salesmen. They wanted to sell us little trinkets, and weren’t going anywhere until we “surrendered.” The salesmen did, however, underestimate our resilience. We held our own, and didn’t even need to be rescued by our tour guide. Eventually, the salesmen gave up and focused their efforts on other unsuspecting tourists.
Meanwhile, we walked around the plaza a bit longer, then gathered near our tour guide to hear about the plans for the rest of the day. He informed us that we were about to go to lunch, then come back, and enter the cathedral.
Buildings near Parque Colon on Calle Isabel la Catolica
The city hall near Parque Colon in Santo Domingo
Crossing the nearby street, Calle Arzobispo Merino
Looking the other way on Calle Arzobispo Merino
Chu Chu Colonial
From Parque Colon, we crossed the nearby street, and stopped for a minute to look at the main entrance of the cathedral. As we were standing there, the Chu Chu Colonial passed by. This was an open-air tour train that looked like a really fun ride, but unfortunately, it was not a part of our itinerary. I can’t really comment on the experience since I never took the train, but it might be something to consider when looking for things to do in Santo Domingo. It takes you through Zona Colonial, while a guide explains the history behind all the sites.
Chu Chu Colonial passing through!
Dominican Lunch
After we took some pictures, our tour guide lead us along a narrow side street to a tiny restaurant, named Adonay. We went in, and were greeted by the staff who had been waiting for us. They had prepared a variety of typical Dominican dishes, and arranged them on a side table.
We were all quite hungry, so no one wasted any time getting to the food. There was a fresh salad, rice and beans, and a very tasty Caribbean chicken. I would be lying if I said I knew much about Dominican cuisine, but I can definitely tell you, it was delicious!
Catedral Primada de America (The First Cathedral of the Americas)
After lunch, we walked back to the cathedral, but this time came around to another side. Right near the entrance, there was a statue of Fernando Arturo de Meriño, who was a famous Archbishop and, at one point, the President of the Dominican Republic.
Side entrance to the oldest cathedral in the Americas, and a statue of Archbishop and former President Merino
The official name of this historic cathedral is Basilica Catedral Santa Maria de la Encarnacion, or Santa Maria la Menor. Completed around 1540, it allegedly held Columbus’s remains before they were moved to the Columbus Lighthouse.
The alter inside the cathedral
Inside the oldest cathedral of the Americas, Santa Maria la Menor in Santo Domingo
We looked around for a little bit, trying to follow an audio tour we had picked up, while making sure our kids were not getting too wild.
After we finished exploring the cathedral, all of us gathered outside. Our tour guide informed us that we had one more stop before heading back to Punta Cana.
The kids and I in front of the oldest cathedral of the Americas, Santa Maria la Menor
Larimar Factory
Our final planned activity in Santo Domingo was a visit to the Larimar Factory. While on the way there, our guide explained that Larimar was the national stone of the Dominican Republic; it did not exist naturally anywhere else in the world.
The Larimar Factory was basically a large jewelry store that specialized in creating Larimar pieces. I admit, I was immediately attracted to the beautiful light blue color of this Dominican gemstone. I definitely wanted to purchase something there, but the things I really liked were pricey. After looking around for a bit, I gave up on the idea, and exited outside where it was easier to resist the temptation. This was a decision I came to regret later, so eventually, I ended up buying a couple of Larimar jewelry pieces at the Punta Cans airport right before we boarded our flight back to the US.
My Larimar treasures…the stone of the Dominican Republic, as blue as the Caribbean Sea
My advice is, if you really love something at the Larimar Factory, get it! The stone is unique and absolutely gorgeous, and chances are you will not find the same piece anywhere else. It is also one of the best Dominican souvenirs you can get to remind you of the country and your trip!
Back to Punta Cana
After we finished our visit to the Larimar Factory, it was time to get back to the shuttle, which was waiting for us right in front. We climbed aboard, and plopped in our seats feeling quite exhausted. On the drive back to Punta Cana, pretty much everyone in the group was dosing off. As I closed my eyes, I truly felt grateful that we had this chance to visit a city with such a rich and fascinating history. I recommend this trip to anyone visiting the Dominican Republic, as it is not only thoroughly enjoyable, but also very educational.
The sunset in Punta Cana
We returned to our resort, Majestic Colonial Punta Cana, just in time for the sunset. The warm hues at the beach, and the light sea breeze were the perfect ending to one truly memorable day of Caribbean adventures!
Additional Resources to Help Plan Your Visit to Santo Domingo
Santo Domingo Tourism – This site is filled with information about the fun things to do in Santo Domingo. Here, you can read about many of the local attractions, restaurants, shopping areas, and more.
Lonely Planet’s Santo Domingo Travel Guide – Check out this link if you want to see what Lonely Planet has to say about Santo Domingo.
Chu Chu Colonial, Santo Domingo – Stop by this specific page for more information about the ride on Chu Chu Colonial, and find out how to make a reservation.
Where are the Remains of Christopher Columbus? – An interesting article about the whole controversy regarding who actually has the remains of Columbus, Santo Domingo or Seville, Spain.
Note: Unless otherwise indicated, the photos in this post were taken by Vessy with a Nikon D3100 camera. Please, send us an e-mail (vessy@feelgoodandtravel.com) if you would like to use any of them. All images are subject to copyright laws.
This trip took place on March 16, 2016.
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